Georgia, the home of the Caucasus Mountains should not be visited without paying a visit to the mountains (of course!). A day hike didn't hurt, and it was the only activity we could squeeze during our trip. So if you're looking for a day hike in Stepantsminda in Kazbegi, look no further! Take this hike beyond Gergeti Trinity Church and witness the Gergeti Glacier with your own eyes!
Hiking Overview:
- Route: Day hike to Gergeti Glacier (aim) but up to Sabertse Pass only
- Actual Moving Time: around 10 hours up to Sabertse Pass only (yep we're slow, we know)
- Highest Elevation reached: 2,970 MASL
- Difficulty Level: 2 out of 5
- Ideal time to hike this trail: June to September for a better weather condition
How to get there and how to get out?
Gergeti Glacier lies along the trail of Mount Kazbek in Stepantsminda. The mountain itself is a famous destination, for amateur and professional mountaineers alike. Due to this, public transportation (marshrutkas) between Tbilisi and Stepantsminda is regular and affordable.
From Tbilisi, take a marshrutka from Didube Metro Station to Kazbegi. Back in 2019, there was a signage that the cost was 10 GEL but we were asked to pay more (15 GEL going to Kazbegi and 20 GEL going back to Tbilisi). The drive from Tbilisi is about 3-4 hours depending on the traffic, road conditions, and how crazy the driver is, so consider traveling the night before if you wish to start your hike early.
From the city center (Stepantsminda), the trailhead is walkable (30 minutes from the bus stop) if you are up for a warm-up. If not, you can arrange a transfer to reach the trailhead and pick you up after your hike. We did not try this so I don't have any information about the transportation cost.
The trail to the Gergeti Glacier is a backtrack trail which means you start and finish at the same trailhead unless you want to end it in Gergeti Trinity Church. If that's the case, it's highly recommended to arrange your transfer back to the town in advance.
Hiking Trailhead:
The trailhead of this trail starts on the left side of the village next to Gergeti Cafe. Go straight from here and follow the trail. Do NOT take the steep slope on the right, just go straight and follow the trail until you reach the river.
Hiking Trail Sections:
1. River & Gergeti Trinity Church
Follow the trail along the river (do not cross the river) and you will even find some trail signs as painted in white-red-white pattern.
Not long enough, you will start walking on the slope of Gergeti Trinity Church. At the same time, you will get a glimpse of the snow-capped peak of Mt. Kazbek. Mt. Kazbek's peak should always be in your North (way of direction).
Get a head start and explore Gergeti Trinity Church before the crowd flocked in. Hike up towards the right to reach the church or else go straight if you want to go continue your hike.
2. Classic Route of the Hill & Memorial of Polish Mountaineers
Walk towards the outdoor parking lot nearby. There's a trail on the left or you can follow the road from the church. Behind the parking lot is the official jump-off of Mt. Kazbek. You will not miss this as you will see mountaineers gearing up for their hikes with their huge packs.
The trail continues on a gentle slope and we encountered a fork on the trail, we took the LEFT Trail. According to Jozef of Caucasus Trekking, the right trail leads to the scenic route, a ridgeline with better views but slightly longer by 300 meters.
During our visit (Summer of 2019), the flowers were in full bloom and I enjoyed collecting them (photos, not actual flowers) at this section. Gradually, I noticed that we were starting to huff and puff our way as we started to pick up the elevation.
A memorial was also built for the Polish mountaineers who died on the mountain along the trail. You are close to the pass when you see the rocks with green patches that look like a growing variety of algae or moss.
3. Sabertse Pass & AltiHut
The top of the hill is called Sabertse Pass with a small shrine (couldn't find the photo of the shrine anymore). Most of the hikers take a break here as you get a sweeping view of Mount Kazbek. If it's not cloudy, you will get to see it in full glory.
We walked further up closer to the edge of the gorge until we finally called it quits to turn around. We didn't even reach AltiHut but it was right before our eyes.
From our turning point, we were an hour and a half away from the glacier. That's a lot of time in addition to the time we will take to go down. We didn't have an option as we were in a hurry to catch a marshrutka to Tbilisi and then a train to Yerevan.
4. Gergeti Glacier
Unfortunately, we were not able to hike up to the Gergeti Glacier. However, as a first-timer in Georgia, the trip was not in vain. I mean, look at that close-up photo of Gergeti Glacier and Mt. Kazbek's snow-capped peak. Isn't she lovely?
So I guess, we're parting ways from here. I will update this once I get back to this trail, and who knows, maybe I'll get to reach Mount Kazbek's summit too! Fingers crossed!
Bonus: Descent View
We took the same trail going down and I was stunned with the view of Gergeti Trinity Church and Mt. Shani as a backdrop. What more could I ask for?
Personal Thoughts of our hike to Gergeti Glacier:
As I always say, we all have different adventure appetite or what I call ‘#hikeppetite’ to begin with. So, a good trail for me might not be a good trail for you and vice versa. And that’s completely okay, we don’t need to agree with anyone or everyone all the time. Anyhow, here’s what I think about hike to Gergeti Glacier:
Pros:
- The trail is easy to follow and the slopes are gentle compared to my other hikes with steep slopes such as the Komsomolets Peak in Kyrgyzstan and the Big Chimgan in Uzbekistan. Getting is a guide is totally personal yet not required.
- Getting to the trailhead is walkable and/or easy to arrange.
- There are lots of dogs along the trail and based on that observation, the trail could pass as pet-friendly and child-friendly since there are no technical sections at all.
Cons:
- During summer, the trail gets crowded. There would be a lot of day hikers (like us) and mountaineers aiming for the summit. If you want some solitude, this is not the place.
- The trail is open and exposed to the sun without any shade at all.
Despite not reaching the glacier, my friend (Joy) and I were very grateful and happy for the overall experience! Our hike towards Gergeti Glacier via Gergeti Trinity Church is how we imagine summer hiking looks like - grassy slopes, sunny and with a gorgeous view of the mountain!
Whatever decision you make, always remember to prepare beforehand, stay safe, and last but not least, enjoy the outdoors! #happyhiking!
With lots of love,
PINAYHAKAWATI 💗
AND AS A GENTLE OUTDOOR ETHICS REMINDER:
LEAVE NO TRACE!
