No matter how last minute my Kyrgyzstan trip is (due to my late application for Kyrgyzstan E-Visa but saved by Visa On Arrival), it would be so wrong not to hike in Kyrgyzstan. It's like going to Dubai and not seeing the Burj Khalifa, a travel stereotype you may say but you get what I mean. Hiking in Ala Archa National Park seems the easiest option given my limited time, so let's do this!
Disclaimer: I did this hike with Beka @kyrgyzgirl__ who arranged the transfers and a guide for me. Not my usual cup of tea (to arrange transfers and guides) but I opted to have one this time.
Hiking Trail Overview:
- Route: Left Trail / Waterfalls Trail up to Ratsek Hut
- Distance: 13.66 km (acc. to my Strava record)
- Moving Time: 9 hours & 30 minutes (including rest stops)
- Difficulty Level (own opinion): 2 out of 5 but the last part (from Waterfalls to Ratsek Hut) is 3 out of 5
If you're looking for an easier hike, you may want to end at the Waterfalls and not continue to Ratsek Hut. Another option is the nearby Kol Tor Lake Hike in Kegeti.
How to get there and how to get out?
Despite being so close to Bishkek, public transportation is quite tricky as the marshrutka runs up to the gate only. From the gate, there's a 12-km in between where you can start your walk or hitch hike. So instead of stressing out on the transportation issues, I arranged my transfers in advance through Beka @kyrgyzgirl__.
However, if you prefer to do it by public transportation, I suggest you check The Gone Goat's (Pashmina) write-up about her day hike experience. She wrote down instructions on how to go by marshrutka as well. I've read her guide multiple times but I'm quite new to hitchhiking so I was hesitant to follow her footsteps at that time.
If you will arrange your transfers, tell them to drop/pick you up at the parking lot:
As of 2024, the average one-way cost of a taxi from Bishkek to Ala Archa National Park (up to the parking lot) is 3,000 som. You may book a taxi through Yandex for a better rate but we have not tried it. Instead, we found a solo traveler and split the cost with him.
This hiking trail is also a backtrack trail meaning you will start and finish your hike at the same trailhead. So going back to Bishkek is exactly how you come as mentioned above, a combination of walking or hitchhiking and a marshrutka, or an arranged transfer/taxi.
Hiking Trailhead:
As witnessed by my own eyes, the actual trailhead is indeed far from the gate of Ala Archa National Park. It was quite the drive to reach the parking lot and we even passed by the gushing Ala Archa River.
The actual trailhead is beyond the parking lot which is the Alplager Hut. It is an A-frame structure with an accommodation facility if you prefer to stay for the night.
Hiking Trail Sections:
There are several trails within Ala Archa National Park. Some lead to the Peaks (I did Komsomolets Peak in case you're interested), Gorges, Glaciers, etc. This post is only about the trail leading to the waterfalls and the Ratsek Hut or Razeka Station, as others call it.
1. Alplager Hut to Broken Heart
A few meters from the Alplager Hut, you will see this map where the trail starts. The trail continues on the left side, away from the main road.
There are few trail signs along the way though not consistent. However, the trail is established and easy to follow. The notable trail sign I've seen is this white-blue-white pattern, although there were no signs of them on the higher part, or did I miss them?
Right after is the not-so-famous ants crossing sign! And if trail humor is a competition, Kyrgyzstan for sure wins this round!
Going a little further, we were surrounded by Coniferous Trees and Juniper Trees. There were few forks along the way they said all trail leads to the same trail. I can't swear on this so please use your best judgment instead.
Once you're out from the conifer trees, the Broken Heart awaits you. Like in Jeti Oguz, the rock is called a Broken Heart as it is naturally split into two thus looking like a broken heart.
This was our rest stop and a photo stop. I don't think I've ever seen this much of conifer trees in my entire life.
2. Broken Heart to Tepshi Plato
Moving forward is a rolling section towards the plateau called Tepshi Plato. Not only the trail is relatively flat, but a great deal (and colors) of flowers are seen here.
Not only do the flowers and plants entertain me, but the sightings of a marmot too! Of course, they were faster than me grabbing my phone so no photos and they're back in their burrows.
3. Tepshi Plato to Waterfalls
The trail remains flat in this part but there's a short section of loose rocks coming your way before the river crossing. No photos were taken because the rocks were slippery, especially at the river crossing.
After crossing the river, the trail slightly veers to the right. The trail will then be divided into two: to the waterfalls (on the left) and Ratsek Hut (on the right). If you have a full day ahead of you, I suggest pushing up to Ratsek Hut but if not, take the left trail to see the waterfalls much closer (I didn't).
4. Waterfalls to Ratsek Hut
From the fork mentioned above, we took the trail going to Ratsek Hut. Struggling started a few meters ahead - steep trail, loose rocks, and slippery section from the melting ice. There's also a bit of mountain traffic that adds pressure plus the constant worry about being short of time.
At an altitude of around 2300+ MASL, it feels hot. Wearing a base layer underneath was a mistake. I couldn't find a place to remove it either as the trail is so exposed. No shade nor boulders to hide even peeing was a struggle.
The steep elevation crushed me and Talay was kind enough to offer to take my backpack several times. I finally threw all my pride at the last stretch and took his offer.
While the trail is not long nor technical, it is quite steep, and the elevation gains quickly in a short distance. Some fellow hikers even turned around at this point!
After hitting the 3000 MASL elevation, I even thought of giving up. The support of Beka and Talay plus the countless rests in between helped and we finally reached Ratsek Hut! Ratsek Hut is a known base camp for mountaineers planning to summit one of the nearby peaks.
Ak-Sai Glacier is also visible near Ratsek Hut. As much as I want to see it (I failed to see Gergeti Glacier during our hike in Georgia), I was totally busted!
CrampFix and a short nap helped me recuperate to prepare for the descent! As mentioned above, we used the same trail to descend back to the trailhead.
Personal Thoughts:
As I always say, we all have different adventure appetite or what I call โ#hikeppetiteโ to begin with. So, a good trail for me might not be a good trail for you and vice versa. And thatโs completely okay, we donโt need to agree with anyone or everyone all the time. Anyhow, hereโs what I think about hiking in Ala Archa National Park:
Pros:
- The proximity of Ala Archa National Park makes it a quick getaway from Bishkek. It's the perfect place to enjoy an outdoor activity without going too far from the city.
- A go-to place by both locals and tourists, you can follow and interact with fellow hikers along the trail. Locals would be very happy to practice their English and I swear the Kyrgyz's warmth, friendliness and hospitality is on another level!
- The trail is established and easy to follow. Getting a trail guide is totally up to your preference and personal concerns.
- Ala Archa National Park (in general) has a variety of options to choose from. There are camping spots where you can have a barbecue with friends and families and hiking trails for all levels.
Cons:
- Almost everywhere in Kyrgyzstan, itโs the public transportation issue. Getting to the trailhead by public transportation is possible but not the most comfortable option. Getting a taxi or an arranged transfer is the most comfortable but not the most affordable option.
- If you're doing the hike to get away from the crowd, you're totally mistaken. It's a go-to place by both locals and tourists so you will not have the mountain for yourself.
Although I struggled badly on the last part of the trail towards Ratsek Hut, I loved every bit of the hike. Overall (the distance, elevation, difficulty level, and scenery), the hike is exactly what I needed at the moment. My #hikeppetite is so happy and full. I didn't even bother to push through hiking in Karakol although I regret that. So if you are in Bishkek looking for a day hike, look no further! Hiking in Ala Archa National Park has trails for all levels and up to your liking and heart's content. Enjoy!
Whatever decision you make, always remember to prepare beforehand, stay safe, and last but not least, enjoy the outdoors! #happyhiking!
With lots of love,
PINAYHAKAWATI ๐
AND AS A GENTLE OUTDOOR ETHICS REMINDER:
LEAVE NO TRACE!
